Category Archives: Julie & David’s Travels

Dear New Zealand

Dear New Zealand,

As you know, people travel to New Zealand for your magnificent scenery and adventure sports, certainly worthy highlights, but they are not what we miss most, it’s the freekah, the labneh, the Afghans, and the Bauernbrot!  It’s about your FOOD!

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House made granola, lentil pie & flat whites.

It’s not just what you eat, it’s the whole food culture that was such a pleasant surprise to me.

P1010635Judging by the widespread use of organic, fair trade, pasture raised, sustainable, and local products, most Kiwis seem to expect quality ingredients and care about where they come from. So many have their own gardens, and stock honor boxes in their front yards to share the bounty.

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“Honor boxes” – take what you need, leave the money in a can!

In many areas we saw beehives stacked along the roadside, and bought, or were given, local honey. And the BREAD – I was so excited to find the bakers in NZ know how to make my favorite German sourdough rye.

Bauernbrot and soup

Bauernbrot and soup

Where I live, the “farm to fork” movement is gaining momentum, but in NZ, it’s just a way of life, no catchy names or movements necessary. Do you realize how lucky you are??

Afghan cookie

Afghan cookie

 A flat white and a slice…

I never would have thought that New Zealand would have the best espresso in the world. We became connoisseurs, sampling from one end of the country to the other, even developing favorites (the Italian style roasts at All Press & Havana). I was impressed how often we saw “fair trade” promoted, and that Havana uses their own, “Real Trade” designation to educate consumers about economic fairness and sustainability. I learned so much from you Kiwi foodies!

drooling yet?

drooling yet?

Aside from the espresso, the food selection in your café’s is so creative, fresh and a good value. We had real muesli, “veggie stack”, frittata, grain & kale salads for breakfast, lunch and dinner. And then of course we couldn’t resist the “slices” and “Afghans”.  It’s refreshing to find so many places where everything is made from scratch – no bulk batters, packaged mixes, bottled dressings.

P1010077As far as I am concerned, there is only one major blemish on New Zealand’s foodie nirvana cafes – for crying out loud, how can you serve those McDonalds-style, deep-fried patties and call them hash browns? I was crushed. One chef I questioned said that they used to make real hash browns, but the Kiwis prefer the packaged ones.

Real potato pancakes at the Courthouse Cafe!

REAL potato pancakes at the Courthouse Cafe!

My favorite breakfast of the whole trip was at a place in Golden Bay that made real potato pancakes topped with avocado, spinach, poached egg and hollandaise. I still dream about it. Maybe the esteemed district councils could outlaw the frozen hash-slabs and require real, grated potato hash browns?

Now that's a sandwich!

Now that’s a sandwich!

I thought maybe our experience in NZ was unique – we just got really lucky and happened upon fantastic meals? But then I noticed that people who have traveled in New Zealand, always mention the food, before I get a chance.  That’s when I knew I had to write, to make sure you realize that your culinary culture is special. Please, continue to appreciate the healthy options you have and protect them, don’t take them for granted. Bigger and more is not better. Pay attention, be diligent, don’t let your food supply become corrupted in the name of “advancement” and profits.

Missing New Zealand!

fresh berry ice cream!

fresh berry ice cream!

Julie & David

Travel Tug of War

DSC_0034It has taken me many miles and months of travel to recognize the tug-of-war that begins on day one, and lasts well into my second or third week of a trip. I could label it jet lag, but it’s more complex than that. It’s that slow process of letting go and embracing what is new, and now. And that doesn’t come easy for most of us, hence, what I call the internal “travel tug-of-war” – one foot in one world and one in the other – straddling the abyss between comfort zone and the unknown.

I think most people are only vaguely aware of this battle going on inside them because they travel at the same frenetic pace they live by at home, so not much changes, you just see a lot of new stuff – you acquire knowledge about another culture, but you don’t have time to experience it, or share with the locals on a deeper level. That takes time.
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On the plane, I immediately jump into the transition – no Western food for me! I order the Bento Box breakfast. The flight attendant passes me three times carrying my meal, looking quizzically at her colleague, I am sure thinking – that blonde woman in 7A can’t be having the Japanese b’fast? I try to convince David to choose the Bento, but he stubbornly opts for the “egg benedict”, which turns out to be a mistake – a cold egg with artery-clogging tasteless sauce. (I mean, come on, it’s difficult enough to make a decent poached egg and hollandaise sauce in a proper kitchen!) The bento box was amazing. If you fly Japan Airlines, for sure order the Japanese b’fast!

IMG_0006Whether you ease in, or dive in, on your next trip, pay attention to your internal tug-of-war and the feelings that arise as you slowly let go of your comfort zone, give up control, and let the new culture flow through you.

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“Elevation Elation”

Elevation Elation: That giddy feeling of exhilaration that overcomes you around Colfax, as you climb highway 80 into the Sierras. Symptoms are more pronounced after dark, and include an uncontrollable urge to roll down the window, stick your head out and inhale the heavenly mountain air, followed by a desire to scoop up the stars, kiss the moon, hug the trees, and jump for joy. There’s no place like home, there’s no place like home, there’s no place like Tahoe!

SO grateful for all I have, and where I live!

Home Sweet Home

Home Sweet Home

Seeing the world, with new eyes…

The only true voyage, the only bath in the Fountain of Youth, would be not to visit strange lands but to possess other eyes, to see the universe through the eyes of another, of a hundred others, to see the hundred universes that each of them sees.  Marcel Proust

Gaucho with smiling eyes!

Gaucho with smiling eyes!

Travel helps me to see the world, and my home, with new eyes.

My minimum travel  time is three weeks, and a couple of times, we were able to do a six-week trip, but this time,  after exploring Chile, Argentina & Uruguay for three months, I am really noticing my “other eyes”.

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Guanaco enjoying their view

The longer you are away, the more acute your awareness becomes when you are once again surround by the familiar.  “Home” is so much more interesting – suddenly I’m living life in a hyper-aware state – I find myself noticing all kinds of little things about people, places and our customs.  I’m going to try my best to maintain this travel hangover for as long as possible.

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Alpaca shearing with the Galileos at Estancia del Zorro

A frequent comment we get is: “Wow, three months, was that too long?”  No, not at all for us. I think it’s like anything in life – it’s what you are used to.  We love to travel slowly – parking ourselves at a homey B&B, connecting with locals, getting to really know a place – this enables us to feel more “at home” wherever we are.  We hang out until we are sure we’re ready to leave, even if that means skipping something we had planned for the end of the trip.  For us to be ‘tour-ists” – to have a set schedule, get a taste of places, and then hurry on – would be very frustrating, and exhausting.

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So many people welcomed us into their homes, and families

If you want to try a longer trip, but are hesitant, don’t worry, just do it! Expect to get antsy, or home sick at around two weeks, if that’s what you are used to. Just ride out those emotions, they will pass. For the first couple of weeks, I struggle to let go of that “have to be doing something productive” drive that always seems to stowaway in my backpack. You will be amazed how hard that is to shake, it is so engrained in us, and when it does start slipping away, you get the inner voice saying “geeze, you’re getting so lazy”.  When you can reply “good, that’s what I am here for – to become a human being, not a human doing!”, congratulations, you’ve had a breakthrough.P1030849

This will be followed by the big payoff.  You will settle into a new rhythm, you will begin to understand what “slowing down” really feels like, you’ll take the ups and downs of travel with a shrug, knowing that you need the lows, in order to fully appreciate the highs.  When you begin to see mishaps and disappointments as benefits, you are really on your way! As the Buddhists believe, your life’s challenges provide opportunities for growth, and I believe, the same applies to travel. (Not to mention, we have had some of our best experiences, as a result of a things going “wrong”.)

Family weekend at the estancia.

“No plans? Great! Join our family reunion!”

Another benefit of extended, independent travel is the mental stimulation – I’m convinced it’s an alzheimers-buster. Every part of your brain gets a workout, every day, all day – calculating prices, deciphering menus, communicating, figuring out driving, bus schedules, maps, IVA taxes (and how to avoid them!*), and the constant barrage of sights, sounds and tastes foreign to you – what could be better therapy to keep those neurons firing on all cylinders?

Travel slow  and see the world, and your home, with new eyes.DSC_0085

 

*I should write a post on the in “IVA” taxes in Chile, Argentina & Uruguay (19-22%) but seeing as we never actually gained any real  clarity on the rules, (and we certainly tried), I will have to just let you enjoy the mental exercise, or the challenge of letting go and just paying whatever is charged. Note: the rules differ in each country, and even the locals are confused. And, the way the taxes are charged (or not charged) varies from city to city, province to province. The good news: the system for getting money back at the airport is pretty well organized, but you only get money back on locally made products, not hotel rooms or dinners.

 

 

 

 

City of Murals – Valparaiso…

… and while you are admiring the artwork, watch your step, numerous stray dogs leave their mark on the city too!

where to look...at the steps, or the walls...

where to look…at the steps, or the walls…

Valparaiso is a great city for walking and taking pictures. As if the steep staircases, hillside covered in colorful buildings and views of the Pacific were not enough, artists paint murals everywhere!

Hard no to have fun with the wall art!

Hard not to have fun with the wall art!

whimsical creatures live in Valparaiso!

whimsical creatures live in Valparaiso!

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Our room at Fauna Hotel

Our room at Fauna Hotel

The view out our hotel room window

The view out our hotel room window

A very artistic breast check reminder?

A very artistic breast check reminder?

Wires? What wires?

Wires? What wires?

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Not the usual decoration on a Victorian

DSC_0964We’ll post more pics from Valparaiso in the next post – hope the murals made you smile!

Vina del Mar, Chile

Fog lifting over Vina del Mar beach

Fog lifting over Vina del Mar beach

Vina del Mar is a popular beach resort ninety minutes from Santiago, and just north of Valparaiso. In fact they are so close, we even walked the 5+ miles one grey day (locals thought we were crazy).

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The main drag, northern end of Vina where the beach areas get a bit more swanky.

Most of the walk is along a very busy road, and a bit unnerving, due to the buses that come screaming by, but we enjoyed getting some exercise, had lunch at the fish market midway, and really got a feel for the area – just another of our non-touristy days!

Nice beaches for a tanning fix, but nothing special if you are from California.

Nice beaches for a tanning fix, but nothing special if you are from California.

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Freighters can be seen crossing the bay in transit from the busy port in Valparaiso

Our plan was to stay in Vina for 2 nights, to relax on the beach, then move over to Valparaiso.  Our hotel in Vina was the Cap Ducal, designed to look like a cruise ship. DSC_0886It was an experience – the staff was very nice, the restaurant good and the rooms were, well… funky, musty-smelling, 1980’s with a killer view, all for $120 a night, (which is not bad for Vina in high season.)

The view was definitely the best thing about the room!

The view was definitely the best thing about the room!

It felt like you were on a ghost ship from the 50’s – we never saw another guest in the hall, but the hotel said they were full!

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The view from the bed made up for the squishy mattress!

After the bright sunshine and balmy nights in Santiago, we were not prepared for cool, foggy weather in Vina, so our plan to lounge on the beach was replaced by a lot of walking and munching.

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Happy Hour overlooking the promenade

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Romantic dinner ‘aboard’ the Cap Ducal

We were however very lucky with our timing, as we had spectacular views of the moon over the Pacific every night of our stay at the coast. Continue reading

Our Santiago Sunday…

Our first time on clay at the International Sporting Club, where the local players were very welcoming!

Our first time on clay at the International Sporting Club, where the local players were very welcoming!

A perfect day in Santiago… tennis with the locals (super fun old guys with all the shots in the book!) at the 100+ year old tennis club, followed by fresh lemonade, coffee, and pastel del choclo – a local favorite – corn pie, then back to our hotel for a siesta!

Sidewalk cafes are everywhere, and I want to enjoy every one of them!

Sidewalk cafes are everywhere, and I want to enjoy every one of them!

Wake up to birds chirping, the distant sound of a concert in the park below our balcony, the ice cream man’s bellow – which sounds like Hello-Hello, but is actually “helado, helado”.  Next on our busy schedule – time to hit a cafe for “onces” (elevenses) which makes no sense, since here in Santiago, they take their “once” between 6-8pm, sort of a warm up for the night out – coffee and sweets, before wine and dinner – I love this city!

Atop Cerro Santa Lucia, a short hike, up steep, worn stone stairs for views of the city.

Atop Cerro Santa Lucia, a short hike, up steep, worn stone stairs for views of the city.

After fortifying ourselves, we decided to climb up to the castle/park on the hill. Love is in full bloom in the parks of Santiago – couples laze around for hours tenderly caressing and making out – public display of affection is everywhere – I’m all for it!

A pretty standard park pose. (Sorry, I am not a voyeur, no pics of the park lovebirds)

A pretty standard park pose. (Sorry, I am not a voyeur, no pics of the park lovebirds)

View of the city from halfway up, still a little smoke from recent wild fires.

View of the city from halfway up, still a little smoke from recent wild fires.

Another thing I am enjoying – the street musicians. I think the best I have ever seen are here in Santiago. We have heard classical guitar, violin, opera, and at one point – a flutist playing Eine Kleine Nacht Music, while from the other direction, a sax putting out some mean blues.

Belly dancer with graffiti wall behind. Graffiti is ubiquitous in Santiago.

Belly dancer with graffiti wall behind. Graffiti is ubiquitous in Santiago.

These guys were great, until a VERY loud alarm went off in the museum and silenced them, bummer!

These guys were great, until a VERY loud alarm went off in the museum and silenced them, bummer!

For cocktails and snacks, we found “Bar the Clinic”, named after the local socialist newspaper, with drinks named after famous rebels, and walls decorated with political cartoons, that we really wished we could understand!

Michele Bachelet was just reelected, so I assume that is her face imposed here, leapfrogging over ?

Michele Bachelet was just reelected, so I assume that is her face imposed here, leapfrogging over ?

Gotta have some reference to Havana in a rebel socialist themed bar!

Gotta have some reference to Havana in a rebel socialist themed bar!

My drink was named after some guerrilla group that fought to get rid of Pinochet. It was pisco, with limon, fresa (strawberry) and aji’! (chili peppers!) Buenos Noches!

 

Patagonia adventures!

Five years ago I had the privilege of filming 2 Passport to Adventure episodes in the Aysen region of Chilean Patagonia. I fell in love with the raw beauty of the place, and met so many wonderful people, I have returned with David, to visit and explore the region further! The more I explore, the more I realize there is so much more to see…

First stop, reconnect with friends at Cinco Rios lodge!

First stop, reconnect with friends at Cinco Rios lodge!

We are not much for checking stuff off a list, and we never have an agenda, which leaves us free to accept spontaneous offers. Our first choice is always to hang with the locals. Boy did we score – we were invited to join in the family reunion weekend out at Estancia del Zorro (their ranch).

Such a fun family - all 23 that we spent the weekend with!

Such a fun family – all 23 that we spent the weekend with!

We went horseback riding, watched the alpaca shearing, learned to play Chilean liars dice with the entire extended family, helped cook, practiced our meager Spanish, and shared homemade schnaps, wine and lots of laughs. We enjoy activities and sightseeing, but for us, getting to know the people is always the priority. For this type of travel, you must be flexible, not be in a rush, and not get too attached to seeing certain sights. For us, it’s all about connecting, that is why we travel.

David studying the family tree he requested, and Nacha drew up for us.

David studying the family tree he requested, and Nacha drew up for us.